JR PULLEYS & BELT REPLACEMENT

[00ITR006]

I'm going to do the install this weekend along with my vafc install, and had a few questions, can i do this install without a torque wrench? How hard is it to replace the bottom pulley as far as reach and working are is concerned, doesn't seem like i will have enough room even for the top idler, but i know the went on so they have to come off. any help appreciated (jim)I will probably have to give you a call this weekend,, can i get the number to your shop again.....pu pu please.

I have a big project this weekend, in addition to my pulleys belt, and vafc, i also have my friends 92 MR2 that he bought off ebay to do a safc install and a Avcr install....

Then we will have to begin molding and fitting his TRD wide body kit on, thats going to be hell i know,,

Then in a few weeks, my JDM frontend should be here, and we will do that install, since he's done one before. then i'll take it to the shop and get it painted, shit, probably get all scratches a dings taken out , and get a fresh coat of paint on her.

I'll have pics of my old pulleys and belt as soon as i get them off, you guys are going to freak when you see mine, cuz it looks Bad, atleast the upper idler and belt does, so suprised it hasn't broke yet..


Also anyone have pic of a vafc install, i'm curious on where to mount mine, i may use a old visor i have and try to fit it in there, i've seen that once, but i'm not going to destroy mine first, practice makes perfect

Wish me luck, then i'm off to the dyno to see how the belts effect performance, and tune the vafc IF, and i mean IF i don't get any CEL's.

[Mr Rogers]

It is easiest to replace all your belts (PS/AC/ALT) along with your blower belt at the same time. We lowered the motor down abit since you have to undo the lower driver side motor mount to get the ac belt off and the pulley replace ment was a peice of cake. What you WILL need it a long exstention for a .25 drive to tightned up that lower pulley. Other then that, no need for any special tools. Good luck

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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[00ITR006]

damn i'm not replacing the other belts. If i had some I would.

[MouhadIb]

Say lil whodi.. Any word on the belts? I've been out of town the whole week and last night from Vegas so hit me up! I might also call you about the belt replacement since I will be doing it very soon.


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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!




[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited April 07, 2001).]

[00ITR006]

anyone?

[00ITR006]

Can anyone else offer any suggestions. I'm about to get to work, and really want to do this right.......... thanks,

[Karnuts]

I have experience replacing the blower belt, crankshaft belt and top idler pulley, so I can give tips for those. As far as the others that you want to do, I have no experience. This instructions is for a 94 GSR, I am not sure if it exactly the same for type R

You need a good ratchet wrench, preferably a small one because the tight space.

To replace the upper pulley, I found out it is a lot easier just to take the off the pulley + sub bracket which is hold by 2 bolts to the main bracket. You need to loosen the tensioner screw, mine is a 11 mm, then take off the 2 bolts of the sub bracket, I think it is either a 13mm or 15 mm. Once you take off the sub assembly, you can just replace the idler pulley on your workbench.

To take off the lower pulley, you need to take off the tire on the driver side, take off the plastic splash guard, and it will reveal the lower pulley. You need to loosen the bolt on the pulley, I think it is either 15 mm or 17 mm. You then also need to have at least 12 inches (longer is better) of the ratchet extension stick and also a flexible connection because you need to loosen the tensioner bolt. I think it is a 11 mm bolt. I loosen it all the way until the lower idler pulley drops. Again you can then loosen the pulley on the workbench.

Depending on what you want to do, if you need to replace the crankshaft belt then you also need to loosen the AC & Power steering belt. You can see the instructions in the Helms manual. If you just need to replace the blower belt, you can do it now because you will be able to slip the crankshaft belt from the alternator and then you can take off the blower belt from the alternator.

I hope this is clear enough and helpful for you. Good luck